Question 1

What is the difference between plastering and skimming?

Accepted Answer

Plastering is the whole job of forming a plaster surface on a wall or ceiling — which can mean backing coats onto masonry or plasterboard, bonding, and finishing. Skimming is just the thin final coat that leaves a surface smooth and ready to decorate. All skimming is plastering, but not all plastering is skimming.

Question 2

Can old plaster simply be skimmed?

Accepted Answer

Sometimes. It depends on whether the old plaster is firm, well bonded and reasonably flat. Where it sounds hollow, crumbles or has been heavily patched, taking it back further is usually the more sensible option than skimming over a surface that isn’t holding.

Question 3

How do I know if a wall needs re-plastering rather than skimming?

Accepted Answer

Tapping the wall, looking at how it’s been patched before and checking how firmly the old plaster is holding tells us more than a photo of the paintwork. Hollow or drummy areas, widespread cracking, or plaster that moves when pressed usually mean it needs coming off. A firm, reasonably flat background can often take a skim. It’s the kind of thing that’s properly judged on site.

Question 4

Can cracks be repaired without re-plastering the whole wall?

Accepted Answer

Often yes. Where the surrounding plaster is sound, cracks and small damaged sections can be cut out, filled and made good. Widespread cracking, or cracking that keeps returning in the same place, is worth understanding the cause of before deciding on the repair — covering a crack that’s still moving rarely lasts.

Question 5

Can damaged ceilings be repaired?

Accepted Answer

Localised ceiling damage — small cracks, holes from old fittings, or a damaged plasterboard section — can usually be made good. Where a ceiling has lost its key (the bond to the lath or board), is sagging, or has widespread cracking, a fuller repair or overboarding may be needed. Older textured coatings on ceilings should be identified before any disturbance, as some may contain asbestos.

Question 6

Can you plaster over painted walls?

Accepted Answer

It depends on the paint. Sound, well-bonded emulsion can sometimes be prepared and skimmed with a suitable bonding agent. Flaking, peeling or gloss paint usually needs removing or keying back first, because plaster only holds to what’s underneath it — a weak layer underneath means the new coat won’t stay. We assess the surface before promising anything.

Question 7

How long does fresh plaster take to dry before decorating?

Accepted Answer

It needs to dry out rather than just feel dry, and that depends on the thickness, the room, ventilation and time of year. Patchy darker areas mean moisture is still coming out. A mist coat (a thinned first coat of paint) is usually the first coat once the surface is uniformly light and dry. Rushing this is the most common cause of paint problems later.

Question 8

What is the difference between rendering and plastering?

Accepted Answer

Plastering is interior work — walls and ceilings inside the house. Rendering is exterior work — a weather-resistant coating applied to the outside walls. The materials and systems differ because they have different jobs: internal plaster is about a smooth finish; external render has to cope with rain, temperature and movement.

Question 9

Can cracked render be repaired?

Accepted Answer

A local repair may be possible where the surrounding render remains sound and well bonded. Where large areas have separated, or the same failure keeps appearing in the same spots, replacing a full elevation can work out better than repeated patching. The cause of the cracking matters — if something underneath is moving or failing, patching over it rarely lasts.

Question 10

What does blown render mean?

Accepted Answer

It’s the homeowner term for render that has separated from the wall behind it. It often sounds hollow when tapped and may be cracked or lifting at the edges. New coats can only hold to what’s underneath, so those areas are assessed before anything is applied over them.

Question 11

Can you render over pebble dash or roughcast?

Accepted Answer

Depending on the condition of the existing roughcast and the system proposed, over-rendering is sometimes possible. Where it’s hollow, loose or unevenly repaired, removal may be the better route. It’s not something to promise without seeing it.

Question 12

What is the difference between traditional render, silicone render and K Rend?

Accepted Answer

Traditional (cement-and-sand) render is a site-mixed coating trowelled on in coats; it’s proven and economical but usually needs painting or a painted finish. Silicone render is a factory-blended coloured through-coat with good water repellency and vapour permeability where correctly specified — it’s self-coloured so doesn’t need painting. K Rend is a recognised brand of rendering systems rather than a type of render; their range includes silicone-based finishes. Choosing between them depends on the substrate, the look wanted and the budget.

Question 13

Does old render always need removing first?

Accepted Answer

No. Where the existing render is sound, well bonded and flat, it can sometimes be prepared and over-coated with a compatible system. Where it’s hollow, cracked, or failing, removal is the safer route because a new coat only holds to what’s underneath. We assess the condition before recommending either.

Question 14

Can exterior rendering be carried out all year round?

Accepted Answer

Rendering is weather-dependent. Cold, frost and heavy rain all affect how render cures and can spoil the finish or the bond. Most systems have temperature limits — application below around 5°C, or onto frosty or wet walls, isn’t advisable. Summer and early autumn are the most reliable windows; winter work is possible in suitable conditions with the right protection, but it’s not guaranteed.

Question 15

Can work be quoted from photos?

Accepted Answer

Photos help a lot with understanding what you’re looking at and can give an indicative range, but a firm quote often needs seeing the job — especially where the condition behind the existing finish is unknown. We’ll always say when a photo isn’t enough and an on-site visit is needed before pricing.

Question 16

What information should I send with an enquiry?

Accepted Answer

Your name and phone number, the postcode or area, a short description of what you’re seeing, and a photo or two if you can. The answers in the enquiry form help too. The more we can see and understand up front, the more useful the first reply will be.

Question 17

Do rooms need to be emptied before plastering?

Accepted Answer

Not completely, but furniture needs to be moved away from the walls and cleared enough to get access and dust sheets down. Plastering is wet and dusty work. We’ll tell you what to clear for your specific job; for a full room it’s usually easiest if the room is as empty as you can make it.

Question 18

What happens if the condition behind the existing finish is worse than expected?

Accepted Answer

It’s not uncommon to find something behind the surface that wasn’t visible — old damage, previous repairs, or a background that isn’t holding. We’ll stop and talk it through before carrying on, explain what we’ve found, and agree any change to the work and the price before doing it. We’d rather find it and flag it than cover it up.

Question 19

Do you cover Sunderland areas outside the city centre?

Accepted Answer

Yes. We work across Sunderland and surrounding areas including Roker, Seaburn, Fulwell, Monkwearmouth, Southwick, Pallion, Hendon, Grangetown, Ryhope, Silksworth, Ashbrooke and Herrington, with wider coverage around Houghton-le-Spring and Washington depending on the job.

Plastering & rendering questions — answered

Plastering & Skimming

Rendering

Quotes & Preparation

Before You Decide

Still looking at something specific?